Barbara Massaad has spent over twenty years traveling across Lebanon, documenting its culinary traditions through photography and writing. She has dedicated her life to capturing the stories behind the food, from the farmers and shepherds to the families keeping these traditions alive. Her latest book, Lubnan, is her sixth. In this interview, Barbara opens up about what inspired Lubnan, her deep connection to Lebanese dairy and shepherd culture, and the experiences that shaped her career.
What inspired your new book?
The inspiration comes from my work on the Mouneh book. Part of that book focused on dairy, its abundance and how to preserve it throughout the year. I’ve always had a love for goats, farms, and shepherds, which inspired me to work on this book for about ten years. For a long time, I couldn’t finish it because of various interruptions. Last year, I decided it was time to complete it. There’s an adage that says when you start something and don’t finish it, you must finish it to gain inner peace. I’m very glad I reached this milestone.
I wanted to put the Lebanese shepherd on a pedestal. The book includes many stories about the Beni Shepherds and features beautiful prose by Omar Abou Ezzeddine. By serendipity, I met him, and he contributed a philosophical story about three shepherds lost in a cave during a storm.
The book is divided into eight chapters, mirroring the eight chapters of Omar’s Book of Abraham, which I saw as a sign. Each chapter of Lubnan ends with a piece of his prose.
Why did you choose this size for the book?
This book combines prose, essays, text, and photos. I wanted it to be something you can hold comfortably while reading—whether on a cozy sofa or at your table. It’s also practical for cooking. For instance, yesterday I used a recipe from the book to make a za’atar cake with yogurt. The size made it easy and convenient, which is why I chose it.
Why focus on dairy?
Dairy is a central part of our diet. Imagine a Lebanese home without labneh every morning, it’s unthinkable! Dairy is comfort food with a capital “C” and an integral part of our culture and identity.
Some people ask why I focus on dairy now, given lactose intolerance issues. I believe that if you get milk from a good, natural source, those problems largely disappear. That’s one of the messages behind the book.
Why did you name the book Lubnan?
Lubnan comes from the word Laban, meaning “white,” which symbolizes the snow-covered mountains of Mount Lebanon. It felt perfectly fitting for a book about dairy from the land of milk and honey.
What’s your motto?
I’m part of a global association called Slow Food, which I’ve been involved with since 2006. Their motto is “good, clean, and fair”—good food, clean production, and fair treatment of those who make it.
All my books aim to honor the people behind the food: the farmers, artisans, and small-scale producers who feed us. Their work deserves recognition and celebration.
Do you have a favorite part of the book?
Honestly, no. All parts are interconnected. Some sections were more challenging than others, but I particularly enjoyed the chapter on kishek, which is one of my favorite Lebanese foods. I even created a kishek cake recipe, using it in a new way, and it turned out wonderfully.
What are your future plans?
If I am blessed with health, I will continue my journey. I have two projects in mind, and I’ll see where destiny leads.
